Claude Lorraine was a French landscape-painter, draughtsman and
engraver. He was born in the small village of Chamagne, Vosges, then
part of the Duchy of Lorraine. Although his early life is unclear it
is said that he moved to Rome, where he is said to have initially worked
as a pastry cook. He was the enployed at the household of Agostino
Tassi, progressing from domestic servant to studio assistant.
Claude
Lorraine also spent two years in Naples studying under the German-born
landscapist Goffredo Wals it was here that he was deeply impressed by
the beauty of the Gulf of Naples, and the memories of these years will
be inspiration for his paintings throughout his career.
In
1627 Lorrain returned to Rome. Here, two landscapes made for Cardinal
Bentivoglio earned him the patronage of Pope Urban VIII. From about 1637
he rapidly achieved fame as a painter of landscapes and seascapes. He
then traveled the Roman Campagna apparently befriended his fellow
Frenchman Nicolas Poussin; together they would sketch landscapes. Though
both have been called landscape painters, Poussin would have the
landscape as the background to the figures; whereas Lorrain, placed
figures in one corner of the canvas, the true subjects are the land, the
sea, and the air.
In all of Claude Lorraine landscapes and seascapes he took great care to capture the smallest detail giving them a very realistic feel. Most of his paintings especially his early work have a strong light source giving his artwork a dramatic presents. Claude Lorraine uses a strong sense of perspective in all his artworks, not only in his use for linear perspective but aerial perspective as well. His painting he manages to capture the depth of the landscapes using the aerial and linear perspective tricking the eye in thinking its viewing a three-demencanal world.
Sunday, 28 December 2014
Albrecht Dürer
Albrecht Dürer was a German painter, engraver and printmaker but as well as being a artist Albrecht Dürer is also know as a mathematician and theorist. Among the many artworks he produced he also published two books, one on geometry called the Four Books on Measurement and the other on human proportions is called the Four Books on Human Proportion. these books included a series of illustrations of drawing frames and perspective machines. The goal of these devices was to enable artists to take accurate measurements of their chosen subject or to trace a scene as it appeared before them in order to create a convincing illusion of the real world.
Many of the techniques used in the 15th and 16th centuries continued to be useful to later artists. The artist John Constable (1776 - 1837) used a glass frame similar to one described in the Treatise on Painting by Leonardo da Vinci (1452 - 1519).
Many artists have used grids to assist them in creating larger or smaller-scale copies. A grid is drawn over the original study, and another grid is marked out at the desired scale on the surface where the image is to be reproduced. The artist can then copy the part of the design that appears in each square at the new size. This technique is still in use today.
PERSPECTIVE MACHINE
String a grid in a frame, (preferred is a grid dividing the frame into thirds or a multiple of three, and a frame in golden proportion or the same proportion as your paper), fix it in place between you and your subject, as shown in Durer's etching. Use it along with a similar grid on your paper to aid in producing an accurate layout of your subject matter. Note that the relationship between your eye, the frame and the subject must remain constant. Useful when dealing with foreshortening or when accuracy of proportion is important to the layout.
A variation of this that works somewhat differently, in that you draw directly on the picture plane, is to place a piece of clear Plexiglas fixed in place between you and your subject, you can now draw your subject on the Plexiglas. Use a suitable maker, one that will clean off, and rough in your sketch. Now transfer the drawing to your paper using tracing and transfer papers, or transfer and enlarge using a grid. Gauze stretched in a frame can be used in place of Plexiglas, and if the size is right, can make it easier to transfer the rough sketch to paper or canvas.
USING A FINDER
When viewing a subject, especially a landscape, it can be difficult to select what to include and what to exclude from the composition. If you find this to be the case you might try using a "finder" to assist in selecting that portion of the universe to include in your composition, and in its placement on your paper.
You can make a finder from a piece of cardboard. Cut a rectangular opening approximately 3.5"x 5". (This is approximately the same proportion as a sheet of watercolor paper, if you are using some other size paper adjust the proportions of the rectangular opening to match your paper.) Hold this frame in front of you and closing one eye and moving the finder, study the arrangement of shapes you see in the finder. Move the finder around until a suitable arrangement is found. Once you have developed the "habit of selection" you will find it is no longer necessary to use the finder.
A photographic slide frame can be used as a finder, however, because of its size, you will need to hold it rather close to your eye.
John Pike's "Wonderful Perspective Machine" is such a finder with some extra features. It is a blue plastic frame (blue to aid in judging the values by neutralizing the color) with gird lines marked on it and moveable thin steel strips that can be lined up with building or other angles and are then held in place by the magnetic frame border. This allows you to set the strips and then judge the angle in relation to the grid on the finder and the same grid lightly marked on your paper.
Many of the techniques used in the 15th and 16th centuries continued to be useful to later artists. The artist John Constable (1776 - 1837) used a glass frame similar to one described in the Treatise on Painting by Leonardo da Vinci (1452 - 1519).
Many artists have used grids to assist them in creating larger or smaller-scale copies. A grid is drawn over the original study, and another grid is marked out at the desired scale on the surface where the image is to be reproduced. The artist can then copy the part of the design that appears in each square at the new size. This technique is still in use today.
PERSPECTIVE MACHINE
String a grid in a frame, (preferred is a grid dividing the frame into thirds or a multiple of three, and a frame in golden proportion or the same proportion as your paper), fix it in place between you and your subject, as shown in Durer's etching. Use it along with a similar grid on your paper to aid in producing an accurate layout of your subject matter. Note that the relationship between your eye, the frame and the subject must remain constant. Useful when dealing with foreshortening or when accuracy of proportion is important to the layout.
A variation of this that works somewhat differently, in that you draw directly on the picture plane, is to place a piece of clear Plexiglas fixed in place between you and your subject, you can now draw your subject on the Plexiglas. Use a suitable maker, one that will clean off, and rough in your sketch. Now transfer the drawing to your paper using tracing and transfer papers, or transfer and enlarge using a grid. Gauze stretched in a frame can be used in place of Plexiglas, and if the size is right, can make it easier to transfer the rough sketch to paper or canvas.
USING A FINDER
When viewing a subject, especially a landscape, it can be difficult to select what to include and what to exclude from the composition. If you find this to be the case you might try using a "finder" to assist in selecting that portion of the universe to include in your composition, and in its placement on your paper.
You can make a finder from a piece of cardboard. Cut a rectangular opening approximately 3.5"x 5". (This is approximately the same proportion as a sheet of watercolor paper, if you are using some other size paper adjust the proportions of the rectangular opening to match your paper.) Hold this frame in front of you and closing one eye and moving the finder, study the arrangement of shapes you see in the finder. Move the finder around until a suitable arrangement is found. Once you have developed the "habit of selection" you will find it is no longer necessary to use the finder.
A photographic slide frame can be used as a finder, however, because of its size, you will need to hold it rather close to your eye.
John Pike's "Wonderful Perspective Machine" is such a finder with some extra features. It is a blue plastic frame (blue to aid in judging the values by neutralizing the color) with gird lines marked on it and moveable thin steel strips that can be lined up with building or other angles and are then held in place by the magnetic frame border. This allows you to set the strips and then judge the angle in relation to the grid on the finder and the same grid lightly marked on your paper.
Saturday, 6 December 2014
Drawing Cutting The Lino Not My Hand 5th December
Cutting The Lino Not My Hand 5th December
With only one week till the assessment, I started today
eager to finish my print from last week and to have at least another one or two
printed as well. With only a short talk about what we were doing today, we
could get right into work.
Our task for the day was more of a continuation from last
Friday's work. I knew exactly what I wanted to do. Seeing as I didn't get a chance
to experiment with the lino last week, I was eager to test out the different
ways I could create a print.
Starting with a small piece of lino as a tester, I quickly
sketched out a line design similar to the large feather I did in my micro macro
lesson. I wanted to keep it simple at first so I could get a feel for the lino
and understand how to use the engraving tools properly.
Having finished my tester, it was now time to print my
engravings; the one from last week, and my tester lino from today. With so many
people in the 3D room doing printing, it was very busy and hard to find room on
the table. I found a space and continued with the inking process. This was a
messy job and the ink itself was stickier than I thought it would be. I grabbed
a cloth and started rubbing the ink into my aluminium plate, working it in, then
using a cleaner cloth to rub off the excess ink from the top. After the ink was
removed it was time to put it through the press and see how the print turned
out. Placing the plate on the press, I lay the wet paper onto it, covered it
with a cloth and then ran it through. As I carefully peeled off the paper, my
print was revealed. It was a good first attempt. Some of the lines were a
little messy and darker than I thought they would be, but all in all I was
happy with my first print.
Now it was time for me to do my lino. This was a lot easier
as I had to use a different ink and roller. Rolling the ink on was a lot easier
than rubbing and removing it. After making sure I had all of my lino covered in
ink, I could place a dry piece of paper over it and then press them together.
Placing both prints out to dry, I went back to the classroom
to start my other lino engraving. I used the same image because I wanted to see
the difference between the two prints. With carving the lino taking a longer
than I thought, I finished my engraving just as the lesson ended. Hopefully I'll
be able to print it on Monday.
Monday, 1 December 2014
Drawing Collage of ideas 1st December
Collage of Ideas 1st December
Today is the first lesson on how to create a collage. This was something I had never done before so I was eager to try it out and learn the methods behind it. A collage can be very creative and abstract, which is one of the many things I wanted to explore. We were given a board and some objects for inspiration. We were also told to make this more of a 3D collage and to use different materials. We could make it as real or abstract as we wanted.
After the explanation was over it was time to pick our objects for inspiration. After searching through the boxes, I decided on three contrasting things; the first being what looked like a seed box from a plant. It was a cone shape that had distinctive large holes. I then picked up a dried and curled brown leaf. With its varied texture, I thought it would be a challenge to interpret into a more abstract 3D form. Finally I chose a small chestnut that still had its spiky protective shell. Just like the leaf, this would also give my collage a different texture, as well as give me an opportunity to add some more geometric shapes. With my subjects chosen, it was time to start mapping out my ideas on how I was going to make my plank of wood into a 3D collage.
I looked at the natural forms I'd chosen and noted which aspects I would like to take from them and develop. I started with the large seed box. Even though most of it was smooth and flat, the main features were the large holes on the top of it. My first thought was layering wood that I had drilled to create a variation in layers. The chestnut was easy as I had selected it for the opportunity to add different textures and geometric shapes. The leaf was going to be my divide in the centre of the board, slightly overlapping the other two, giving a feeling of movement
With my design ready to be made, I headed down to 3D to make my geometric chestnut and my layered seed box. After finding different pieces of wood, I then marked out my circle for the seed box and cut it out using the saw. I then used different sizes of drills to make the holes. With that finished, I started cutting out my shapes for the chestnut, making them various sizes so I could layer them together.
After gluing them all on my board, it was the end of the lesson. I got a lot done, but still needed time to finish and apply my leaf to the collage. This lesson was very different to the last ones we had, but it was interesting to learn about different ways you can create art and the various methods in doing so.
Friday, 28 November 2014
Drawing engraving 28th November
Engraving 28th
November
With today being the first day of printing, we started off
with a talk on the processes we will be doing over the next three weeks. There
are many different materials and ways to engrave.
Collagraphs are built up in a collage-like process onto a
rigid base. The resulting plate is then inked and printed onto paper.
Collagraphy is a very free form of printmaking and achieves very vibrant
colours and a great depth of tone. Collagraphs can either be relief (where the
ink is applied to the upper layers of the plate) or intaglio (ink is applied to
the whole plate and then removed from the upper layers, left only in the
recesses.)
We were taken to the 3D room where the printing would take
place and shown how to turn our engravings into prints. It started with placing
a piece of paper in some water to soak and while that is happening the ink is
placed on the aluminium plate using a fine cloth and then the excess is rubbed
off with a clean part of cloth. After the ink is removed the plate is then
placed in the printing machine and the paper that was soaking in the water is
drained of any excess water and layered on top of the aluminium plate. Finally
the whole thing is run through the press and the paper is focused onto the
aluminium plate and the ink is imprinted onto the paper.
Having been shown the printing process, it was now time for
me to have a go. Using a photo from the cathedral trip of a dragon, I started
drawing out the outline using the tracing paper. When I had finished the outline
I placed the tracing paper over the carbon paper and layered both over the
aluminium plate. Then taking a fine pen I traced over the lines I had already
made.
With all the lines pressed onto the aluminium plate, it was
now time for the next part of the process which was engraving. I took the metal
tool that looked like a pencil and started to scratch away the surface of the
aluminium, taking care to plan the areas of light and shadow before I made any
marks on the plate. I started with small light lines in one direction for the
lighter areas, then going over them in the other direction using the cross
hatching technique to create deeper and more texture lines for the shadows. I
kept doing this till I had all the different layers I needed for the print.
As it was now the end of the lesson, I would have to finish
printing on Monday. This was my first attempt at print making. I enjoyed
learning about the different methods you can use to achieve a print.
Monday, 24 November 2014
Drawing many tones with a couple of colours 24th November
Many tones with a couple of colours 24th November
Today's study was a look at colour and how to use it
correctly with tone. We were given a large scale still life set up to paint,
focusing on the tonal difference between the separate objects. Having set up
the board, we were given an A2 piece of paper and four colours of acrylic paint.
With only four colours, we had to adapt to match the tones, using the two warm
colours (yellow and red) as the lighter tones on the still life, and the two cool
colours (blue and the green) as the shadows. This is because cool colours tend to recede.
I started with the lightest part of the objects, using the yellow to cover the brightest areas, slightly going beyond so it would be easier to blend the dark paint with the light to get a gradual tonal change. Ignoring the fact that the four colours we were using looked nothing like any on the object, we had to see beyond the idea of realistic colour. Instead we were to think of the colours as light and shadow, warm and cool, and use them to create different tones.
What I found difficult was that I wanted to use the acrylics
like watercolour paints, blending the paint together to get a gradual smooth
transition from one colour to the next. This is hard to do with acrylics, especially in a
short time frame, so instead I layered the paint thicker and tried to make the
colours work with each other, ignoring my need to blend. I still worked the
colours into each other, but not with a smooth finish. It made it look very
abstract.
Friday, 21 November 2014
Drawing Human form in different ways 21st November
Human form in different ways 21st November
With this Friday being the last lesson on life drawing I was
hoping to increase my speed so I could complete a couple more pieces.
The lesson started with a quick 5 minute study. This was a
good way to warm up as well as getting used to drawing quickly; something I
need to improve on. For the first three poses we were told to get as much of
the form down as we could. For the last few poses we only had to draw a stick
man made up of five lines, one each for the body, arms, legs and a circle for
the head.
We were then told to turn our board around to the side of us
so that we could draw on it, but not see what we were drawing. Using a piece of
charcoal, we had to draw the model making sure not to look at our drawing, or
taking the charcoal off the paper. The results were very interesting; mostly
mad scribble, but they did have some figure shape. Finally, on the same page,
again not taking our charcoal off the board, we had to draw just the outline of
the model, but this time with the opposite hand. It was an interesting exercise
that made you concentrate on what you were drawing.
We then moved onto a larger drawing where we covered the
paper with black charcoal, then used the rubber to add light by erasing the
dark. As I have done this a couple of times during the course, I'm starting to
get accustomed to drawing this way. Using the rubber to lightly draw the lines
and to map out the figure, I then started to pick out the lightest parts and
gradually add and blend in tone. We were then given white charcoal to make one
part of the drawing more detailed. We were told this is how the old Masters
worked and that the drawings they did were just a part of the painting process.
I chose to draw the model's arm and shoulder as they were in the light and had
more tone.
Finally we were given a different way to start a drawing; instead
of measuring we had to draw lines and angles that would form the figure we were
drawing. This looked almost like construction lines in a building. It was a
very different way of drawing from last week, but having got used to measuring
angles, it wasn't too hard. After the lines were drawn we could then go over
them with a bit of colour to sketch out more of the curves of the figure. It
was an interesting lesson and gave me some different ways of looking at the human
form.
Monday, 17 November 2014
Drawing tone and colour 17th november
Tone and colour 17th
November
I started with the darkest parts, adding one layer of paint,
then using water to gradually blend the darker layers into the white paper.
Using this method I continued layering on paint, creating the gradual tone to
mimic the shadows in the painting. It was easier to make the differences in
tone blend together with a smooth transition from dark to light using the paint
in this way.
Using tone is important because it can define a subject as well as make it look three dimensional, being able to depict tone when using colour is an important skill. Without tone, the drawings and paintings would look flat.
Friday, 7 November 2014
Friday Drawing Life Drawing Figuring out the body
Figuring Out The Body
Once again it was the end of the week which meant another
all day life drawing session. After enjoying last Friday's class I was eager to
get started. In the first part of the lesson we were focusing on capturing the
essence of the figure by doing quick sketches. We started with 5 minutes then had
less and less time till we were down to 30 seconds per drawing. I found this
was an interesting and difficult way of drawing because I normally take my time
and like to map out every part before I move on. However, with this I had no
time to spare and had to get as much down as quickly as I could before the time
was up. I had to try and think of ways to capture the form of the figure as
quickly as possible with the least amount of lines. With that in mind I started
drawing quickly.
From one drawing to the next I didn't have much time to
think about if the position or proportions were right on my drawings, I just
had to go with my first instinct. After drawing normally for a while, we were
then told to make a couple of drawings without taking the pencil off the paper.
We only had a couple of minutes to draw a pose with just one line, and not
taking the pencil off the paper. The pencil was always moving forward. With
this type of drawing I had to think a step ahead of where my pencil was so I
could keep the line going in the short amount of time we had. This was a hard
way to draw. I not only had to think of the outline, but how I would connect
the lines inside.
After the quick drawings were done it was time to start the
main study. We started covering the paper with charcoal, then mapping out the
figure. Using the same system as last lesson, I started measuring the model by
establishing the head size then seeing how many head lengths go into the rest
of the body. I then resized that onto the paper so that the figure would fill
the page, once that was done I started drawing the head and shoulders measuring
as I went and adjusting where I needed to.
Once the figure was drawn I had to add tone. With the black
background I had to take away the dark areas with a rubber to show the light. I
went around the drawing adding darker tones for the shadows and rubbing away to
show the light. I was just finishing when it was time to start the next
drawing. We were given a shorter time to finish this last drawing, 50 minutes
and we weren't allowed to use any curves. This was interesting to practise because
it made me notice how a lot of the body is made up of curves. I started a new
drawing only using straight lines. I made what seemed a very cubist figure that
was very different from the other I had done today.
With time up, I reflected on what I had done today. In a
short amount of time I had done several quick drawings, a long study in
charcoal, and a 50 minute study. I was happy with what I'd finished. I know I'm
improving and I can tell I'm getting a lot quicker with my drawings. It's only
8 weeks into the course, so I'm looking forward to seeing how much I will
improve over the coming months.
Monday, 3 November 2014
Drawing Monday Tonal Development 3 November
Tonal Development 3
November
After the half term I was ready to get back to the collage
and the drawing lessons. Even though I've done some drawing at home over last
week it wasn't the same as having the group lessons. I missed looking at the different
styles of the class, getting ideas, and being able to talk through your
thoughts. Getting feed back from the other students is something I find very
useful.
This Monday's lesson was continuing on from last week, which
was developing tone. We were set a task to draw an object of our choosing on a
large A1 piece of paper. We were then to cover the paper with charcoal so we
had a surface to add and take away from.
Having made my feathers in micro-macro a similar way I was
eager to try out this way of drawing again. I started by picking my object.
This was an important task as I wanted an object with a contrast of textures so
I could have a range of tones to draw. Searching through the boxes of objects I
found one that was very interesting. I still have no idea what it was, but it
seemed to be made out of natural materials.
I started by closely examining the object, turning it around
and looking at different angles so that I could find the most interesting view
point to start my drawing. I finally settled on turning the object so I could
see the inside and part of the outer rim. This was so I could get the contrast
of the bumpy inside and the smoother outer skin of the subject in question.
Having established what I will be drawing, I then had to cover
my paper with charcoal. This was simple, but messy. After going through one
whole charcoal stick I was ready to start the drawing. We were to begin by
rubbing away the charcoal that we had just put on as a background. This was a
different type of drawing than normal, but I just saw it as drawing the light
instead of the shadow.
I started my drawing by lightly mapping the outline making
sure that I didn't take away too much of the charcoal to begin with. I then
quickly rubbed out the parts where the light was hitting object. This time
taking away more of the black charcoal and starting to work on tone. With this
method I had made three tones; the black background, the grayish tone that was
the mid light; and the lightest tone that were the spots where the light was
hitting the object. Having the basic tone mapped out, I was now ready to add
and work back into the layers with some more charcoal. This was easier than I
thought it would be as the charcoal when smudged made it easy to blend tones
together, creating a smooth transition between the tones.
I found trying to get the tones of the smooth areas
difficult as they had very little change in the tone other then gray to black so
I had to work out ways to get the texture without losing any tone. One of the
many good things about working with a black charcoal background is that I could
add many layers to one part without damaging the paper. This was a good thing
seeing as parts of my object had very complex textures. The only way I could
have a good contrast with the tones and still keep the texture, was to layer
smudge the layer on top of the paper over again until I was happy with the
results.
With a lot of the layering done, I quickly went over many
parts of the drawing adding darker or lighter parts making sure the contrast was
there so the object stood out from the background. After a lot of adding and taking
away, and then adding again, I was happy with my artwork. The lesson on
building tone by taking away was not only useful, but enjoyable.
Friday, 24 October 2014
Drawing Friday LifeDrawing 24th October
A Change of Plan 24th October
As
soon as I stepped through the door of my Friday drawing class I could
tell something was wrong. We had been told that today we would be doing
print making. I could see this was definitely not the case as there were
easels set up and a male model was standing in the centre of the room.
We were then informed we would be doing life drawing and not printing
today.
With
the talk over, it was right into drawing the model standing in a normal
upright pose. First I had to make sure my starting point was correct. I
had to fill as much as the page as I could with out cutting any parts
of the model off. This being my first life drawing, I was a bit
apprehensive of what my drawing would turn out like, but I had very
little time to think about that. With a little help I mapped out the
proportions on the paper and was ready to start drawing the figure. As
quickly and lightly as I could, I sketched out the model, constantly
going back and checking the measurement against the head size, not only
for the length, but for the width too.
I
found it a lot easier to draw the longer I was doing it. I got into a
rhythm, and was getting quicker as time went by. The only thing I had to
fight against was the urge to add a lot of tone. The first drawing was
to be more of a study on line and proportion than anything else and
adding lots of tone would detract from that.
With
the minutes racing by, it was time for a break before I knew it and I
had to stop drawing. We then went to the other room for a group
discussion. Mostly we talked about how we felt about our drawings and
what we found difficult. Almost everyone said getting the proportions
right was something they found difficult and I was the same. With a
quick recap of how to make sure we were doing the measurements
correctly, it was back into the room for the next drawing.
This
time it was a different pose with the model sitting on a stool, having
one foot up on a box whilst twisting to the side. It was a lot more
interesting to draw if nothing else. Also, we were using an off white
coloured paper which meant we could the add some tone into the drawing.
This was something I was happy with, not only adding the shading, but
also using a white pastel pencil to add some highlights. I took all the
things I did from the first drawing, measuring and scaling it to the
paper, while still keeping the proportions right. This drawing took a
lot less time than the first one. I found it a little easier because I
kept checking and measuring all the time.
With
most of the model mapped out I could then move onto adding a bit of
tone to the figure. I started with the head and worked my way down to
the feet. I also added a little tone to the stool he was sitting on, but
I wasn't really worried about that. I wanted to finish the figure
before spending any time on the objects around him. I used crosshatching
to add layers of tone. I went over it again for the very dark part of
the drawing, then with the white pastel I gently added a little light to
some parts.
I
was so busy concentrating I forgot about the time and before I knew it,
the lesson was over. Most of the drawing was done. I didn't get around
to finishing the stool, but I wasn't too upset about that. I was happy
with what I'd done considering it was my first attempt at life drawing. I
look forward to improving in the lessons to come.
Monday, 20 October 2014
Drawing Monday One thing in many ways 20th October
One thing in many
ways 20th October
This Monday we were starting a new subject in drawing, and I was interested to find out what we will be asked to do.
Before
starting we had a short discussion about how to present our drawing on
the A1 page. We were asked to make smaller studies that were to take no
longer than twenty minutes. We also looked at some design sheets from
3D. This was so we could get ideas on how to lay out our page.
With
the talk over with, I picked my object. I started with what looked like
a plant of some sort? I chose it because of the interesting centre it
had; many different lines that looked like little veins.
I
started my first drawing with a side view of the strange object. I did
this so I could include a view of the intricate veins inside. I drew in
pencil as it was a starting point, as well as a good way to familiarise
myself with the subject. I concentrated on tone, and tried to work
quickly, aware of the 20 minute time limit for each drawing. This limit
was so we could have time for more than three drawings in the lesson.
After
a little over 20m minutes had passed, I'd nearly finished my first
drawing. I moved the object so I could only see the top. With the
interesting web like inside, I quickly mapped out the outline using a
pen. Capturing the intricate details without making it look messy was
difficult. I started at the centre and worked my way out from there,
slowly building on the lines, trying to keep the flowing winding
feeling. I decided to keep the top half unfinished, partly because the
20 minutes was up, but also because I thought the composition was more
interesting that way.
Moving
swiftly on to the third drawing, I grabbed some white and black
charcoal and started sketching out a detail of part of the inside;
layering the black and then the white on top. This wasn't as successful
as I would of liked. I wanted to get a feeling of depth in the drawing;
one of the main reasons I started this sketch.
During
a short break, I walked around the room looking at other people's
drawings, asking them why they chose their objects and what they found
difficult. I got mixed comments, but most people chose their object
because of one or two parts they found interesting; either the feel,
texture or tone, or a combination of these things. A lot of people were
doing ink washes and using paint. This is something I haven't done much
of yet, seeing as colour is in the last section of our drawing lessons .
I
moved onto my final drawing of the day; a view of one side, as well as
the inside of the object, using an ink wash. I focussed on the negative
space and used cross hatching to cover the outside of the object. I then
filled in the space in between the intricate veins on the inside, using
a small amount of water to keep it light.
At
the end of the lesson, I had done more than I initially thought I
would. I later found out that the object I was drawing was a part of a
natural loofah. This made me look at it differently in some way. I think
if I knew exactly what it was before I started, I might have drawn it
differently? However, I'll never know for sure.
Friday, 17 October 2014
Drawing Architectural forms Building Layers On Black Paper 17th October
Building layers on black paper 17th October
As
Friday was the last time looking at architectural forms, we were given a
task of producing a sort of final art work by the end of the day.
Before we started we were shown some different ways artists have drawn
buildings, as well as the materials they used. We could then develop
some new ideas on how to look at the building we were drawing, and
understand we don't have to follow the photo we had.
I
decided to draw on black paper as the white would make the drawing
stand out. All the details would also allow me to create many different
tones. I grabbed a pencil and started lightly mapping the outline. When I
started drawing, I realised this was a good exercise for perspective.
With many lines going to different vanishing points, I had to make sure
they were all correct before I started adding white onto the paper.
Unfortunately
I didn't get to add all the detail before calling it a night. I would
have to finish this off another day. However, I was very happy with what
I'd done. It was a big improvement compared to last Friday.
Monday, 13 October 2014
Monday Drawing Composition Placing things on the page 13th October
Placing things on the page 13th October
Today's drawing lesson focussed on composition; a continuation
from last week. We started with a quick talk about the handout on composition we
were given last Monday. This was to make sure we all understood how composition
works and the methods some artists use to achieve a unified and interesting composition.
After the talk was over, I was set the task of completing
two drawings from the large scale setup that was in the centre of the room. I had to draw one
large A1 drawing and one smaller A2 drawing. This was different from last Monday's
lesson as today the subject was already there, but I had to pick a section draw.
Starting with the smaller drawing, I considered the assembly
of objects in front of me. In my mind I tried to frame each part as if it was already
a finished drawing. With composition in mind, I searched for a visually
pleasing arrangement of shapes and lines. There had to be a focal point and an
structure of elements to lead the viewers eye around the work. I looked at symmetrical
balance, and the flowing lines and patterns in the objects. These can help or
hinder the composition of the drawing. The elements within the frame must be
arranged in a balanced compositional way.
I made a start as I wanted to get both drawings finished by
the end of the lesson. I chose the dry bit of wood as my focus. I thought this
would be a good starting point because of it's interesting shape and the
surrounding objects. I restarted a couple of times to rethink what was going to
fit within the frame. I wanted enough objects in there for it to be interesting,
but there also had to be a balance of space.
While I continued measuring and adding tone, I had to think about
what points of my drawing the eye would be drawn to and if it fitted in thirds,
or the "visual grid". I also had to think about how tone, especially
contrast of tone, can visually draw attention and make the viewer move their
eye.
I finished my first drawing then moved onto the second one;
the larger A1 piece. This time I decided to focus on the negative space. I moved
around viewing the objects from different angles, keeping composition in mind.
In this drawing I would work quickly, and concentrate on the
outline of the negative space. Once the line work was done, I added texture and
tone to the areas of negative space. I added darker tones near the outlines of
the objects, then had it gradually fading further away from the positive shapes.
This was a good exercise for adding tone and texture to the negative space and
making the positive shapes appear.
At the end of the lesson, we had the opportunity to look at everyone's work. Each artwork showed a different style and technique. The interesting variations gave me several ideas on how to represent the same subject in different ways.
Friday, 10 October 2014
Drawing Lichfield Cathedral Learning the Hard Way 10th October.
Lichfield Cathedral - Learning the Hard Way 10th October
Today's Friday drawing lesson was about having a close look
at the drawings and photos from the trip to Lichfield Cathedral. It was also
about why the Cathedral was built.
With the talk over I had to print out my photos from the
Lichfield Cathedral trip so I could then start my drawings. We were then given
a choice of different size paper and materials to use, as well as a choice of
working on a table, easel or wall. As most of my work up until now has been on
the wall on big pieces of paper, I chose to stick with that as I'm still
getting used to drawing that way. The more practice I get, the better.
I looked at a photo of the top of one of the arches. It had some
great detail I wanted to capture. I made a few sketches concentrating on different
aspects of the same photo. Sadly it didn't go very well. The first drawing was using
black and white charcoal. It was a bit messy and I couldn't get the detail in.
The problem was that I'd drawn it too small for the amount of detail I wanted
to add. I left it unfinished and moved on to another drawing. In this one I
concentrated on a detail of part of the first one. It was a little better, but
I was still unhappy with the outcome. I just couldn't get the detail right.
Aside from that, the tonal work wasn't the best I could do. The charcoal wasn't
behaving itself. I tried to smudge it, but it didn't create the effect I wanted.
In five hours I did three drawings that weren't finished,
and I wasn't happy with any of them. On Wednesday I finished four drawings in
just two hours. One of the tutors even commented on them being some of my best
work he'd seen me do. It was quite a contrast.
One thing I thought about, and now realise, is that not
every drawing I do can be a great artwork. I understand that days like today are
a time for me to learn from my mistakes. I have to see what doesn't work in
order to know what does, so the next time I try something like this, I have an
understanding of what I could do better.
Wednesday, 8 October 2014
Wednesday Drawing Night 8th October
Drawing Night 8th October
With Wednesday's visual communication lesson over, I stayed
behind with one of my group to catch up on some work. There were lots of things
to write up and stick down from today's visual communication. After a while a
different group of students came into the room. While they were talking we overheard
them discussing tonight's drawing class. This was something I completely forgot
about, but having heard it was starting soon, I quickly packed up and searched
for the room where it was held.
I found the room, sat down and got ready for the class to
begin. It started with an introduction on what we will be doing for the next
two hours. After hearing exactly what, I started to worry. What had I got myself
into? We had to pick an object and stick with it for the whole two hours. We would
have to draw quickly, focusing on capturing the feel of the object, not getting
hung up on making sure the line work was perfect. We were given twenty minutes
on each drawing and had to have at least three to four A1 drawings by the end
of the night.
Getting so much done in a short time worried me a little. The
main things I find difficult are all the things we had to do, drawing in a
large scale on the wall, working quickly, and not focusing on the line work of
the drawing. What had I got myself into? There was no time to think of that now.
No time to worry about anything because the 20 minutes had already started. I
had to quickly grab an object, paper, a bit of wall and something to draw with,
or I wouldn't have time to finish anything.
I started with drawing the shell on white paper, making sure
I filled as much of the page as I could. With no time to think about making
everything perfect, I had to go with the first lines I made on the page.
Working quickly, I had to get as much tone and texture onto the paper as I
could in the 20 minutes. With time ticking away, I found it easier to make
faster and freer marks. With the first 20 minute up, I'd completed my first
drawing. I was surprised I'd finished it. I could of done more, but it was
done. You could see it was a shell and I managed to even get some shading done.
Once again it was time to start a new drawing and I wanted to use some brown paper. I had to cut the paper myself and there wasn't much room to do that. It took some time out of my 20 minutes, but I got there in the end. I could now start. I turned the shell around to view it from a different angle. I added a little colour. I worked quickly, trying to capture the various tones and the feel of the shell. I would of liked to have done the shape a little differently, but there wasn't enough time to be picky.
Now for the last drawing of the night. The minutes were passing
so quickly I'd hardly noticed the time. I couldn't reflect on that now because I
had to start my last piece and I had to make it work. I grabbed one more piece
of black paper and positioned the shell, turning it to face me so I could see the
inside and outside spirals. I quickly sketched the outline of the shell and
shaded like my life depended on it. I moved swiftly from one part to another,
smudging the smooth inside part of the shell, but keeping the outer lines
sharper to depict their rougher texture.
The final 20 minutes were up. I stopped and reflected on
what I'd done; I'd finished four A1 drawings in 20 minutes, and was happy with
them. This was something I didn't think I would ever do. Having only a short
amount of time to draw, made me worry less about the lines I was making. There
wasn't time for worrying about decisions. I couldn't be indecisive. I had to go
with my feelings and draw quickly and instinctively.
Last Friday I spent a long time trying to finish my feather drawing.
However, in the last two hours, I did more than all day Friday. This class
showed me I don't have to take so long to draw. I can capture the feeling of an
object without taking hours. I was happy with each one of my drawings. Of
course there were some parts I would like to change or do differently, but
overall it was a good result. I was amazed at the end of the lesson at what I'd
achieved. I left feeling excited and pleased.
Monday, 6 October 2014
Drawing Composition 6th October
Composition 6th October
Today's Monday drawing class was about composition; an important
aspect all artists must think about. It doesn't matter whether it's drawing,
painting or photography; composition is a key element of them all.
The class started with the group being split into threes and
fours. Each group had to create their own composition to draw, using what was
around the room and some things the tutor had gathered.
It was an interesting exercise thinking of the composition
on not only one side, but all the way around. It's difficult to achieve
interest in every direction, as well as making sure it's balanced with no large
gaps or space on any one side.
The group all voiced their ideas and arranged the objects we
were all going to draw. This made it interesting because of the different
ideas of what to go where, and how it should look. We all had to come to an agreement
before starting. Luckily it was settled quickly and we were able to get down to
the drawing part of the lesson. This was where the other parts of the decision
making took place, but they were decisions I normally make whenever I start any
drawing. However, this time composition was at the front of my mind. Having to
stop and think of something you do naturally makes it harder to come to a
decision. Firstly, I had to decide whether to have the layout in landscape or
portrait. This seems like a simple thing, but it has to be considered carefully
because each choice will give a different feel to the drawing. It depends on
what you're drawing and how big you want to make the objects.

The time went too fast and I had to stop working before I
was completely satisfied. The speed of my drawing is something I have to work
on. I hope I improve in this area as I continue through the course.
I had a quick break before starting the second of the drawings. This exercise was about focusing on the negative space around the objects to make us more aware of the importance of this space as part of the overall composition. It also ensures we are looking at the object in a different light or point of view. I was much quicker with the second drawing, as well as being a lot freer. Concentrating on negative space, I focused more on the outline than the object itself.
The next thing to consider was the position of the objects;
where to place things on the page? How much negative space will there be? What
will be the centre point? These are some of the questions you have to ask
yourself when focusing on composition. Symmetry is one solution artists
sometimes use to a composition problem. It gives artworks a calm feeling
because of the visual balance.
There are many different ways to draw and paint, and there
are many rules to take into account when composing an artwork. Some are
mathematical, such as the golden section. This is about achieving harmonious proportions
and relationships using a specific mathematical ratio that is "pleasing to
the eye". Most accomplished artists who have studied great artworks,
and made their own works, instinctively know how to create the right
composition.
I started with drawing the eye line and picking my centre
point of the drawing. This was something I found difficult. I took the long
bottle as the centre and worked around that, putting what I've learn so far
from the other drawing classes into practice. I worked slowly trying to get
everything in proportion.
I had a quick break before starting the second of the drawings. This exercise was about focusing on the negative space around the objects to make us more aware of the importance of this space as part of the overall composition. It also ensures we are looking at the object in a different light or point of view. I was much quicker with the second drawing, as well as being a lot freer. Concentrating on negative space, I focused more on the outline than the object itself.
With the class over, I was happy to get two drawings done.
However, if I had the chance, I would do them differently. The first drawing
was lop sided and unfinished. I would of liked more time working on it.
Friday, 3 October 2014
Drawing Lichfield Cathedral 3rd
Lichfield Cathedral 3rd October
Today's Friday drawing lesson was a field trip to the beautiful Lichfield Cathedral; a massive Gothic style cathedral with a long history.
We started by walking around the outside, taking photos of
the whole building, as well as capturing small details of the carvings and
figures on the exterior walls. It was hard to pick which parts to focus on as
it's such an ornate building. All the stone carvings had been lovingly crafted
with such skill that each one deserved to be individually admired. Everything
about the building showed how important this cathedral must have been to the
whole community. When the cathedral was built, the church was the heart of the
town. If that is true then this would be a good example. Each of the three
stone spires are heavily engraved with a gold crosses on top. They appear to be
reaching up to the sky towards God. Back then it would of been the tallest
building in the area, so no matter where you were, you would be able to look up
and see the spires and be reminded of God.
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